Petered Pans: On green cookware

Dear Umbra,

I'm thinking it's time to start switching out my family's cookware. When hubby and I got legally partnered, we received some Calphalon (am I allowed to name names?) and pseudo-Calphalon non-stick cookware, and we've used it for a number of years. While the non-stick finish has been well cared for and is not chipping, flaking, or peeling, I have some concern about non-stick finishes and want to be able to put my cookware under the broiler. I know cast iron is supposed to be good, but is the enamel-coated kind OK? (I fear all that seasoning.) Or should I go with steel -- or something else? I hear there's a new Cuisinart Green Gourmet line, but my research seems to indicate there may be some greenwashing there. Help, Umbra, please!

Jenn M.
Raleigh, N.C.

Dearest Jenn,

This week is dedicated to the typing challenge presented by chemical compounds. Conventional non-stick pans have polytetrafluoroethylene coatings (DuPont's Teflon, anyone?) made with perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) -- a synthetic chemical that is thought to break down at high temperatures, spew new chemicals about, kill birds, and cause an illness in humans known as polymer fume fever. In 2005, DuPont agreed to pay a record $10.25 million settlement with the U.S. EPA for allegedly withholding information about the health risks posed by PFOA. In 2006, non-stick pan manufacturers agreed to phase out PFOA by 2015. Avoid this slippery slope and lay aside your non-stickers until such time as a good substitute is announced on high.

Non-stick pans also happen to be short-lived, and hence they are somewhat disposable. Better to go with durable, non-off gassing cookware. For stovetop cooking, these could be made from glass, cast iron, plain aluminum, anodized aluminum, stainless steel, copper, or any of those materials in combination. You would need to check them for broiler approval, of course, though cast iron (for one) will easily move from stovetop to oven.

Each type of cookware will have pros and cons, and each carry the burden of resource extraction and processing. Mining is not pretty, and transforming ore and sand into a cooking implement must take quite a bit of energy. But pans as a whole are of small concern compared to the rest of our daily choices, right? In these cases -- where thinking about small stuff is good, but thinking about it too much is not -- we turn back to the three R's. Particularly, Reuse and Reduce. It's key to buy pans that suit your cooking style and last for years so you don't need to constantly replenish your supply.

Out of all the materials I've mentioned, aluminum stands out as one of the more energy-intensive products. On the other hand, anodized aluminum pans work well and last a long time. Well-seasoned cast iron wares are practically stick-free, and maintaining them is not difficult, but if you don't want the hassle, they're not the pans to pick. Cuisinart's description of their Green Gourmet line sounds great, but only in comparison to other non-stick pans. Ditto for another contender, GreenPan (with "nano nonstick technology!"), which claims to be planet-friendly but has gotten mixed reviews from users.

Here is what I recommend: Check out a little roundup from Canada about cooking pans and health. Read it, decide what (if any) materials to cross off your list, and then stop researching the environmental and health angles and focus on what fits your needs. Interview any foodie friends, ask detailed questions of experienced salespeople (if you can find some), and ogle pans at a local store. You might also want to purchase a few with a good return policy, take them home, settle on your favs, and bring back the rest. Then stick (sorry) with them and forget about this issue. Eat hearty.

Hungrily,
Umbra

Related Links:

• Umbra on what to do with cooking oil
• What's the greenest countertop option?
• Umbra on why Brits have smaller fridges